How did Kvass become a Russian drink? -History of "bottled bread"-Russia Beyond

You can't imagine how many kinds of kvass the Russians came up with. Sweet, sour, mint, raisin, apple, pear, honey, pepper, western kvass, rich kvass, soldier kvass ... However, it took at least 10 centuries to produce these varieties. By the beginning of the 19th century, there were over 1,000 recipes. This drink, made by fermenting wheat and malt or rye bread, has become a unity of the people and, at one point, part of politics. Let's introduce it step by step.

Who invented the kvass?

Kvass manufacturer

It is not known when Kvass, Russia's main cold drink, appeared in Russia. Perhaps it wasn't the Russians who first devised it. Drinks reminiscent of kvass were also made in ancient Greece and Egypt. In the 5th century BC, the ancient Greek historian Herodotus talks about a drink named "Aphos". A piece of bread was soaked in water and fermented to obtain something similar to kvass.

In all respects, the kvass seem to have been made here and there. However, for several reasons-the availability of materials at all times, the combination of weather conditions, etc., has settled in none other than Russia. The description of Kvass first appeared in the document in 996. According to the Edict of the Duke of Vladimir, "food, honey and kvass" were served to those who newly accepted Christianity. Over time, in other countries, the drink has evolved (for example, beer), but kvass has become a Russian "invention." However, the "nationalization" of Kvass became more and more interesting.

Who drank kvass and why so much?

Kvass sale

Peasants, soldiers, doctors, monks, emperors ... Kvass literally drank everyone. At home, everyone made kvass with their own recipes. Therefore, so many types of kvass have been created. Just as there are various ways to make borscht depending on the home, there are basic recipes, but extensive experiments have been added to them. I encountered various differences in the types and amounts of materials and procedures.

For example, at the stage of adding water to bread and wheat and fermenting it, the result was different depending on whether cold water was used or hot water was used. Alternatively, the taste was different depending on whether it was fermented in a fireplace or in a kettle, and it was possible to add flavors such as sugar, hops, mint, raisins, and honey to the barrels in which wheat and malt were fermented.

During the Rus' era, kvass were drunk on a daily basis like today's tea. There is a Russian saying, "Kvass is the same as bread and you never get tired of it." Kvass was once thought to be the same as a meal, so it was described as "eating" rather than "drinking." During times of hunger, people were able to take kvass to field work and other hard work and survive in kvass. The old kvass were still liquid as they are today, but I was able to get a feeling of fullness. I was also able to use kvass to make dozens of dishes, from okroshka (like a cold soup with kvass in a salad) to chula with green onions (soup with chopped bread).

In the 12th century, kvass began to distinguish between sour, slightly alcoholic beverages and those with a fairly high alcohol content. Those with high alcohol content were called "manufacturing kvass". In other words, it means not only naturally fermented but also boiled. He did not exceed 1-2% alcohol in naturally fermented kvass without boiling, but "manufactured kvass" could have a comparable alcohol content to wine. There, kvass became one of the alcoholic beverages, and more and more enthusiasts.

An individual profession called a kvass maker was also born. Each kvass manufacturer specializes in making and naming specific types of kvass (apple kvass, oat kvass, etc.). There were manufacturers in each district, and it was not preferred to reach out to "other" districts. Manufacturers lived separately and avoided fierce competition.

And there is another reason why Kvass has gained immense popularity. "The reason is simple: we lacked clean drinking water. The larger the population, the more serious the problem, the more plague and major gastrointestinal illnesses," said Pavel Stkin, a Russian culinary history researcher. It caused. Fermented beverages such as kvass and ciddle were basically safe from a hygienic point of view. "

The relationship between ancient amulets and patriotism

Home-made mint kvass

But it wasn't just the plague that Kvass saved. As everyone fell in love with the kvass, the kvass became considered sacred and mysterious, and became a talisman-like power. Young women began to kvas the chairs of Banya during the pre-wedding cleansing ritual (the rest had to be drunk), and men were fired by lightning. I extinguished the fire with kvass. Thunder is "the wrath of God," because it was thought that it was kvass or milk that could deal with it. When such a fire broke out, there is a theory that the ring on the kvass barrel was thrown to prevent the damage from spreading, and there is a theory that the kvass was set on fire as it was.

Even in the upper class, the power of kvass was believed to be good for health. "Kvass" is related to the ancient Russian word "sour", and lactic acid had a positive effect on the body. Kvass loved Führer Alexander Suvorov, Peter the Great, and Duke Mikhail Goritzin, and drank them every day. Mikhail Goritzin, who was demoted to a court clown, was given the name of "Kvass Maker" and prepared Kvass for Emperor Anna Joanovna.

It was not until the Napoleonic Wars of 1812 that Kvass had incredible glory. Russian intellectuals have begun to show patriotism through Kvass. "In no time, instead of champagne, kvass was poured into crystal wine glasses and served at the ball," Pavel Stokin said. Over time, some sarcastic people have emerged to show such official patriotism to Russia. Therefore, the term "Kvass-style patriotism" was also coined. The term was coined by the literary critic Alexander Pushkin's best friend, Duke Vyazemsky, who stated in his "Letter from Paris" (1827): "Many people consider it patriotic to fully praise everything they do. Jack Turgot called it'obedient patriotism', but in the case of Russia it is kvasic patriotism. You can call it. "

"Secular" drinks

Kvass seller

It was in the latter half of the 19th century that the status of Kvass became suspicious. First of all, in the upper class, kvass and similar sour drinks became unsuitable for aristocratic life, and were regarded as "profane" drinks. However, it was still favored by small officials, merchants and farmers. In 1807, Catherine II's doctor wrote: "Rogelson, the oldest doctor and doctor of Catherine II, said that pickled cabbage, salted cucumbers and kvass are hygienic and very beneficial to the general public in Peterburg, worsened by weather and week of life. Preventing a variety of potentially illnesses. "

In the middle of the 19th century, industrialization began, and kvass were rarely made in ordinary households. But in an attempt to preserve this wonderful heritage, the Russian National Health Conservation Society set out to protect Kvass and began manufacturing it in hospitals. Kvass made in the hospital continued to be distributed to the military, fleet, and prisoners for a full century until then. Wherever there were troops, there was always a clinic, and wherever there was a clinic, there was always a table with kvass. When there wasn't enough kvass, executives were informed and budgeted to buy wheat immediately.

Kvass tank

However, the last "fort" of Kvass also collapsed in 1905. Tea was replaced by the unit's clinics and hospitals instead. The reason is that kvass are difficult to make and difficult to store on the move. Since then, kvass has become a beloved drink, not a must-have drink for Russians. During the Soviet era, instead of wooden barrels, they were poured from yellow metal tanks that came to the city from hot summer to autumn.

In Russia after the collapse of the Soviet Union, bottled kvass are now on sale and can now be bought at any store. By the way, there are still traditional yellow tanks that come to the city. However, because the current kvass are standardized, it doesn't feel as unique as it used to be, but there are still many people who love such "ordinary" kvass.