I wanted to make Messyori Produced by Recruit all the time ── Full -scale recipe for those who want to cook "shrimp" at home [Sichuan cuisine amazing people]

Is there anyone who doesn't like chili shrimp?

The great chef of Sichuan cuisine, the Chinese restaurant "Rivayon Attack" in Nihonbashi.・A recipe taught by Mr. Yoshitsugu. This time it's the standard shrimp chili.

──I like shrimp. This time, I would like to ask you how to make shrimp chili.

Hitocho: There aren't many people who don't like shrimp chili. There are times when I serve it as part of the store's staff, such as when something good happens. Then all the staff will be happy and say "Yosha!" (laughs).

──Even people who work in Chinese are happy like children, aren't they? Hitocho-san's recipes always have surprising checkpoints, but the highlights of this time are as follows.

Stir-fried Shrimp with Chili Sauce (2 servings)

Ingredients

Shrimp oil (optional. Commercially available shrimp oil can be substituted)

Chili sauce

Let's start with cutting

Hitocho: Chili sauce goes well with anything. At home, I use it for chicken thighs and squid. You can also use frozen seafood mix.

──In addition to shrimp, squid and shellfish are included in the seafood mix, which sounds interesting.

Hitocho: Also, eggs. In China, there is a dish called "egg stir-fried with chili sauce". I often make it for meals, and it's perfect as a side dish for rice.

──That sounds good.

Hitocho: And as for the ingredients this time, there is a meaning in the phrase "shrimp with shell".

──If you want to go easy, you can use “peeled shrimp” or “frozen boiled shrimp”, but is it okay to say that raw shrimp with shells is preferable?

Head: Yes. So, I'd like to start by cleaning the shrimp first.

── Ebi-chan.

Hitocho: But when it comes to cutting boards, should we start with leeks?

──In that order, you don't have to clean the cutting board.

Hitocho: It's the usual green onion sprout cutting. 1/3 green onion. If you decide the rhythm, you will be less likely to get injured. By the way, I'm cutting in 5 beats today.

Hitocho: Shrimp chili is good with green onions, really.

──Huh? "What about shrimp?"

Hitocho: No, no, the shrimp is good, but the green onions are good (laughs).

Hitocho: Side dishes like this are very important. So, I would like 50g of green onions. Green onions are changed to 1/2.

──Oh, the amount has increased (laughs). Everyone seems to use half of the green onions.

Hitocho: Then peel the shrimp. This is raw vannamei shrimp, 200g. Shrimp sold at the supermarket are fine. This time, I recommend shelled shrimp if possible. However, if you don't like peeling shrimp, you can of course use peeled shrimp or frozen boiled shrimp that have been peeled.

Human chief: Peel off the shell. Today we will also use peeled shells.

──Oh!

Hitocho: That's why shrimp is better with the shell on.

──If you say that, you'll buy shelled shrimp.

Hitocho: (While peeling the shrimp) When I was little, I used to catch crayfish in the nearby stream.

──Did you eat?

Captain: I haven't eaten. But recently, crayfish dishes have become popular in China.

──Shrimp shells are all swollen. It's not like leaving a tail like fried shrimp.

Hitocho: Leaving the tail behind makes it look like a “shrimp,” which is fine, but it’s hard to eat. I want to use this shell this time, so I will peel it up to the tail.

──So you want to use as many shells as possible.

──That's really good. After all, it seems that he was made to do a lot during his training period.

Hitocho: No, not at all. is that my personality? "What is it?" "Were you born with me?" "Habits that can't be changed?" "Are you saying it's neat?"

──Oh, nice, nice (laughs).

Hitocho: The bigger the size of the shrimp, the more filling it is, and the better it tastes. I like how big it is.

Human Chief: Let's take off our backs. I can't help but linger in my mouth. The bamboo skewer can be dug from anywhere as long as it is a joint.

Hitocho: But when you actually try it, it's easier to remove it cleanly if you start from the tail side.

──It's amazing, it's long.

Hitocho: It's getting interesting. Look, look, look!

──Ooooh! "It can be taken cleanly."

Hitocho: If this remains, the texture will be very bad. It's crispy. Alright, that's all there is to it.

──Peel the shell of the shrimp all the way to the tail, and dig the spine from the joint on the tail side with a bamboo skewer and remove it smoothly.

Make shrimp oil

(*This step can be omitted if you are not using raw shelled shrimp.)

Hitocho: There are dried green onions here. far outside. It's the one that I dried the outside of the green onion I just cut the night before.

Hitocho: Make shrimp oil using green onion and ginger peel. The point is, when you put it in the final finishing touches, the aroma of the shrimp becomes more prominent and the shrimp chilli becomes more delicious. Using shrimp shells that would normally be thrown away, we devised ways to make it even tastier.

Hitocho: At the store, you can buy sweet shrimp heads, so that's what I use. The taste of miso is also on board, so it's delicious. But this time, it would cost a lot of money to go out of the way to use headed shrimp, so I'll just use normal shrimp with the shell on. But if you have headed shrimp at home, use it. That way, you can make more delicious shrimp oil.

Hitocho: I use 100cc of salad oil in total, but I start with about 1 tablespoon. and light the fire.

Head: Please put all the shrimp shells in. Roast it like this.

Hitocho: You can use all the oil at once, but a little at a time will bring out the aroma. It's already lightly scented. Even if you make a lot, if you put it in the refrigerator, it will keep for about a month. In that case, it is important to avoid contact with the air as much as possible to prevent oxidation.

──It smells so good. Shrimp shells are also becoming shrimp-like pink.

Hitocho: Once the shrimp evaporates and the aroma comes out, add the outside of the spring onion and the ginger peel.

Hitocho: If you add too much ginger and green onion to the shrimp, it will end up smelling like ginger and green onion.

Hitocho: You can use a small amount of flavored vegetables to eliminate the smell of the shrimp. About 1/3 of a shrimp shell should be fine.

──It's a 3:1 ratio of 3 shrimp shells, 1 ginger and 1 spring onion.

Hitocho: It's getting browned, isn't it? Once you've made it this far, turn off the fire and pour in the rest of the oil. Then, reduce heat to a simmer.

Head: If there is moisture, the oil will splatter, so be careful. That's why we dry the onions.

──When green onions and ginger are added, the scent changes again.

Hitocho: It neutralizes the smell of shrimp. Don't let it burn. If you burn it, it will have a burnt smell, so let's finish it before it burns.

──That's what low heat is for.

Head: Oh yeah. If the fire is strong, it will burn before the scent comes out. It's such a weak flame.

Hitocho: It turned out to be a nice color. This is good... I'm going to fall in love with it myself (laughs).

──Even when it is transferred to a bowl, it is still juicy, and the fragrant shrimp flavor is rising.

Human Chief: Let this sit until it cools down. And here is the cold one.

──It's out! "Can I lick it?" Perori. The scent of shrimp is boosted and amazing. Delicious. I want to pour it over the ramen in a completely pointless way.

Preparing Shrimp, What is the Secret Technique of "Chan"?

(For washing shrimp)

chan

Hitocho: Preparing the shrimp. You don't have to do this with frozen boiled shrimp. First wash the shrimp.

── Ebi-chan.

Head: Ebi-chan. A pinch of salt and a pinch of potato starch.

Hitocho: I'll rub it with this.

Hitocho: What this is doing is "washing the shrimp". It removes dirt and eliminates odors. Potato starch is the role of a cleanser.

──Potato starch is an abrasive.

Hitocho: The salt is to draw out the moisture in the shrimp. It's not seasoned, so a pinch of salt is enough. A pinch of potato starch is enough.

──Salt draws water out of the shrimp, and potato starch absorbs the dirt on the surface of the shrimp along with the moisture.

Hitochou: Then wash it off with water.

──It's a rinse.

Head: The water is a little cloudy, isn't it? This is shrimp dirt. Even with just this one step, it becomes much tastier. This is important.

Hitocho:: If you change the water several times, the shrimp will turn white.

──Wow, beautiful. was washed That means, under the shell, like this...

Hitocho: There is a "proof that the shrimp was alive", isn't it?

──Umm. It's okay if the water is no longer cloudy.

Hitocho: Wrap the shrimp in kitchen paper to remove moisture.

Hitocho: After removing the water like this, the next step is the “chan” process. In the world of Chinese cuisine, there is a preparation called "chang" to prevent the shrimp from shrinking. It's an important task to season the shrimp and prevent them from shrinking. I will add flavor to the shrimp. 3g of salt. Appropriate amount of pepper. The so-called "table pepper" is fine.

Head: Egg whites here. About 1/2 egg for 200g of shrimp.

Human length: I will fir it.

──Does it feel like foaming or adding air? It will look like a meringue. It looks like you're stirring it pretty hard.

Human Chief: You think so. The wrist is the wrist. Just a snap is fine. I'm kneading, but gently so as not to break the shrimp. This is how you coat the shrimp with the meringue batter. Then it's hard to shrink.

──Well, I was wondering why the shrimp always shrink so much when I cook them.

Hitocho: When you cook it, you can't help but shrink. To keep it from shrinking, I put clothes around it and season it.

Hitocho: Ebi-chiri shrimp doesn't taste good if it only tastes like chili sauce. I'll add flavor to the ingredients as well. This is important.

──Huh! "In other words, 'chan' is rubbed with salt and pepper and coated with egg white at the same time." Very reasonable.

Hitocho: The flavor is inside and the batter is coated with egg white. But if it stays like this, it will flow.

Personal head: Add 1 teaspoon of potato starch, stir again, and stop the flow with this potato starch. Then the clothes are attached properly, so it's okay.

Head: If you add too much potato starch, it will be powdery or dry, so be careful.

Bake the Shrimp

Personnel: Bake the shrimp in a frying pan, then take it out and make the sauce in the same frying pan and add the shrimp. The reason why I do this is that if you do all the shrimp and chili sauce together, it will take a long time and the shrimp will become mushy. This is to prevent that and finish the shrimp in a crisp and soft state.

Head: Start with 2 tablespoons of oil. It's a little too much. Add oil and then light it. Fire it up first.

Hitocho: Originally, Chinese food is called “Abura-toshi”, where oil is boiled and poured over the shrimp, but it is difficult to do at home. Today we will bake it and take it out, so we will use it instead of "Abura-toshi". So I add a little more oil. When the oil boils, reduce the heat to low and arrange the shrimp.

People's head: Arrange each one with your feelings. Or rather, if you put it in, the egg white will flow together and the shrimp will stick together, so I arrange them so that they don't stick together.

Head: Then let the oil spread all over the shrimp.

── Ebi-chan.

Hitocho: Once the shrimp are in, turn the heat up to high to crisp the back side. This is about 1 minute.

──That sounds pretty crackling. This makes me want to flip it over.

Captain: Please hold on to that. Since the egg white is included, the oil tends to splash easily, so please be careful. After 1 minute, turn the heat down and turn it over.

──That’s a nice “shrimp pink”! "And it's crunchier than I expected."

Human length: 30 seconds on low heat from here. The shrimp pasteurization here is about 50%. It's okay if the contents are still raw.

──At this stage, the surface should be crisp.

Human Chief: Stop the fire here. If you make both sides crispy, the fire will pass through the inside. Transfer to a plate before it is completely cooked.

Hitocho: I added 2 tablespoons of this oil just now, but it's been absorbed by the shrimp, so it's now about 1 tablespoon (laughs). It's just right, so I'd like to make chili sauce without adding oil.

Make the chili sauce

Hitocho: The fire isn't lit right now. You can also use the same oil that the shrimp was cooked in.

Person length: 1 teaspoon of garlic. 1 teaspoon bean sauce. 3 teaspoons ginger. It has entered. 1 garlic and bean sauce, 3 ginger. The ratio is 1:1:3. The chili sauce works well if you do it at this rate. If you think about it in terms of percentages, you'll eventually be able to do it by eye, so it's convenient. So, if you like spicy food, you can increase the amount of chili bean sauce, and if you don't like it, you can reduce it to half or less.

Hitocho: Stir-fry over low heat. Garlic and ginger will smell fishy if you don't fry them properly. And by frying the doubanjiang well, the spiciness and red color will come out properly, so be sure to fry it here.

──And keep moving it so it doesn't burn.

Hitocho: Seasonings and condiments lose their role if they burn.

──Wow, this scent is a real stimulus. It's already painful.

Hitocho: Even that amount of chili bean sauce works quite well. Yes, put out the fire. Add amazake here.

──Amazake? "Um, is the red can of amazake okay?"

Head: Of course that's fine. By the way, at our restaurant, we use a seasoning called Chunyan. It is made by fermenting koji, glutinous rice and sake.

Hitocho: In short, this is very similar to amazake. Shall we taste it?

──Lingering Chunyan. Ah, amazake.

Captain: Right. I thought amazake could be a substitute for Chunyan in Japan. If you don't have amazake, mirin is fine. In China, chunyang is used like mirin. It's almost essential for shrimp chilli at our shop. I put it in the mast.

──For example, can I use shio-koji instead?

Captain: Um. I've never done it.... This recipe uses salt, so I have to adjust the amount of salt again...

──It's just annoying, you should stop.

Captain: Two tablespoons of ketchup here. Put this in and turn on the heat. Ketchup is the same as doubanjiang, and by frying it, the unnecessary sourness evaporates and the red color appears.

──Huh. Ketchup is similar to doubanjiang, and when it is stir-fried, the finished color develops better.

Hitocho: If you put it in as it is without frying, it will smell like ketchup.

──Oh, it's going to taste like the ketchup.

Hitocho: Stir-frying the chili sauce really brings out the flavor. The sourness will rise gently, so add the Chinese soup here.

Person length: 100cc. Today, I dissolved 1/2 teaspoon of powdered Chinese soup in 200cc of water. It was easy to count. It is a style to make 200cc and use only 100cc from there. The chili sauce gets salty, so I make it thin.

Hitocho: Once inside, open the fire and boil it.

──It's been rumbling.

Captain: Here, 1/4 teaspoon of salt. 1 tablespoon of sugar.

Hitocho: Turn off the heat and taste.

Head: ………………. It's okay.

──I've been accumulating it for a long time (laughs).

Hitocho: No, chili sauce is really hard to balance. To be honest, you may have to change the amount of sugar and salt depending on the type of doubanjiang. I want you to see the taste here.

──In other words, the taste is decided at this stage.

Human Chief: Yes. I will decide the taste here. Then add shrimp.

Head: Please put the shrimp juice properly.

──Shrimp soup.

Hitocho: That's what I'm good at. Open fire.

(a sizzling sound is heard)

Jincho: Add the green onions.

──In fact, there are quite a lot of green onions.

Hitocho: Without this, it's not delicious! Then let it mix and turn off the heat once.

Hitocho: So, water-soluble potato starch. Today, I added 1 tablespoon of water to 1 tablespoon of potato starch. Same amount. 1:1. I can't put this in at once. stop the fire Add about half and stir.

Hitocho: I did it when I made mapo tofu, but this is the least likely to create lumps. If the shrimp are lumpy, the chili sauce won't stick to the shrimp and it won't taste good. I want to avoid that, so I mix it properly and then turn on the fire.

Hitocho: Since the task of grilling the chili sauce begins here, only about 50% of the shrimp is cooked at first.

──While cooking the chili sauce, you heat the shrimp even more.

Head: Right. It balances the bills, doesn't it? If you think it's loose here, turn off the heat and add a little potato starch dissolved in water. By the way, I didn't include all of them.

──You don't even need to use the whole tablespoon of potato starch.

──I see. If the shrimp is thoroughly cooked in the first stage, the heating at this stage will cause the shrimp to shred or become hard.

Head: That's right! At this point, everyone will say, "I'm done!", but the aroma of the chili sauce comes out when it's grilled to perfection.

Hitocho: Shrimp chili is called ganxiaosharen in Chinese, and ganxiao is written as "dry/bake", but that's a cooking method. Roasting in this way is called “Ganshao”.

──Now this process is “Ganshao”. It's bubbling around the pot.

Hitocho: 1 tablespoon of shrimp oil from earlier. Put it in the pot skin and bake it further. Of course, if you're not making shrimp oil because you used peeled or frozen boiled shrimp, you can omit it.

Hitocho: The rim of the pot is burning, isn't it? understand?

──It's like monjayaki. It's good to signal that it's going to be like monjayaki, isn't it?

Hitocho: … No, it's different from monjayaki.

Head: Look, this is very important. A burnt smell rises. Be careful not to stir constantly or the bottom will burn. When it is burnt and smells, turn off the heat. Chili oil here. Put it in if you like.

──Wow, that's a lot. Oh, if you don't like spicy food, it's okay without chili oil.

Head: Of course. and the point. I'm going to add vinegar. Just a few drops, really. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.

──5 drops!

Hitocho: What is vinegar for? By neutralizing the sharp parts with vinegar, the food will come together better. That's what vinegar is for. It's not for flavor.

Hitocho: Put this in a bowl and you're done. Green leaves such as sunny lettuce for color. It's beautiful in red and green.

──Just like when you put the oil in the pot to finish off the mapo tofu, this time you put shrimp oil and chili oil in to finish it. And vinegar?

Hitocho: Shrimp oil “adds fragrance”, chili oil “adds spiciness”, and vinegar dares to “neutralize the spiciness and bring the taste together”.

Today's ``Stir-fried Egg with Chili Sauce''

It's okay to start making shrimp chili, but it seems that there are some cases where you realize there is no shrimp halfway through.

At times like that, it's fun to make something that looks like shrimp with potato starch, but it's also good to stir-fry an egg and eat it with chili sauce.

[Ingredients] (For 2 people)

Head: Break the egg. Two.

Head: I'll divide it normally, normally, as usual.

──For some reason, I ended up doing flashy poses every time.

Captain: Stir.

Person: 2 tablespoons of oil in a frying pan. Eggs and oil go very well together, so add a little more.

Head: I'll put an egg in the boiling water.

──With a fairly high flame.

Hitocho: Yes, because the portable stove is weak. This is an egg as an ingredient. If you make scrambled eggs, the eggs and chili sauce will all be mixed together. So, that's about it. This is enough.

──It looks a bit like a noodle piece.

Head: Oh yeah. Transfer this to the vessel once. This will replace Ebi-chan.

── Ebi-chan.

Head: In the same pan, let's make the chili sauce just like before.

Head: Turn off the heat and add the egg. Also add the green onions. Add the water-soluble potato starch. This can't be helped by pouring it over the egg, so put it in the sauce and mix. The fire is still out.

Hitocho: After mixing, the heat is fully opened and the mixture is thickened.

──You shouldn't bake it to the point of burning like before.

Hitocho: This is a bit different. Shrimp and eggs are treated a little differently.

Hitocho: When it reaches this size, please put the shrimp oil I made earlier. Chili oil is also available for cool people. If you don't have shrimp oil, you don't have to put it in.

Head: And a little vinegar. Then turn off the heat and you're done.

──Wow, it smells good.

Head: I can do it right away.

Let's eat

Hitocho: Hey, the shrimp are still big. The chili sauce is also firmly involved. yes! "It's crazy good." It stings. Most Chinese cooks, especially Sichuan chefs, don't go to other restaurants to eat shrimp chili. After all, I make it almost every day, and I don't bother going to someone else's shop to eat it. But sometimes, when I make it myself or eat it somewhere else, I think, "As expected, it's so delicious!"

All: Wow!

Hitocho: I don't know what to say, Ebi Chili is "the taste of Ebi Chili", isn't it? It's hard to imagine. Sweet, good, spicy... everything is condensed. In addition, today I made shrimp oil to give it a more shrimp flavor, so it's really good.

──Wahahaha! "I'm running out of vocabulary!"

Hitocho: Even though it's baked in a frying pan, it doesn't shrink and is crisp because it's done properly.

──The crispy surface of the shrimp is clinging to the chili sauce, and the plump body of the shrimp is also flavored. There is no divergence like the common "shrimp mixed with chili sauce", and you can enjoy it as a "shrimp chili" with a sense of unity. It's so delicious.

Let's go, Tamako-chan.

Head: Egg Chili Sauce. I'll gladly give you this.

Hitocho: It goes well with white rice. I want you to be cool. I want you to put this on white rice and say sizzle.

──Wow, surprisingly, it's completely different from shrimp chili! "It has a round taste." Goes well with rice. You can drink rice smoothly!

The Story of Chili Shrimp and Chen Jianmin

In the first place, there is no such thing as “stir-fried shrimp with chili sauce” in China. This dish was invented by Chen Kenmin, the father of Sichuan cuisine in Japan.

Hitocho: Originally, there was a dish called "Gan Xiao Sha Ren" and "Gan Xiao Min Sha" over there. I use shelled headed shrimp. The prawn miso is red. Doubanjiang and shrimp miso red. I've eaten it over there too, and it's pretty spicy.

Hitocho: Ganxiao Sharen is made by stir-frying doubanjiang, soy sauce, and sugar, then adding crushed shrimp heads. It's not the seasoning of shrimp chili like this. In the first place, ketchup didn't exist in ancient China. The prototype of today's ketchup is American. The pronunciation of ketchup seems to originate from Chinese.

──NHK's "Chico will scold you! ’ But you did it.

Head: Did you do it? Mr. Chen Kenmin is a person who thinks about how to get Japanese people to eat dishes that use ingredients that are not available in Japan, such as twice-cooked meat, so this is what happened to the shrimp chili. I think.

Hitochou: He's my master's master. I never met him. For Japanese Sichuan chefs, he is like a god.

If you want to eat professional shrimp chili made by Mr. Hitocho

There is no reason why shrimp chili made to suit Japanese tastes is not delicious for us.

In the first place, this chili sauce is a style for Japanese dining tables, so the ingredients are not limited to shrimp, and you can use anything.

As well as seafood mixes and chicken, this egg chili sauce was a sin to accelerate the swallowing of white rice.

I would like everyone to try making it.

For those who think it's a little troublesome to make, you should visit Hitocho's shop in Nihonbashi. You can enjoy the professional taste that inherited the taste of Chen Kenmin.

Photographed by Kunio Hirayama

Store Information

Rivayon Attack

Address: 3-4-4 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo OVOL Nihonbashi Bldg. B1F Phone number: 03-3548-0840 Opening hours: Lunch/Monday-Saturday 11:30-15:00 (14:30 LO), Holidays 11:30-14:30 (14:00 LO) Dinner/Weekdays 17:30-0:30 the following day Next day 0:00 (23:00 FLO/23:30 DLO), Holidays 17:30-22:00 (21:00 FLO/21:30 DLO) Closed: Sundays (For reservations of 20 or more people , we will be open)

Written by: Kenki Washiya

Freelance editor. A dexterous poor with a restless career, such as life hack book editing, vocational school lecturer, video work reviewer, public relations magazine designer for an incorporated association, and card game "Chunibyou Poker" evangelist.

Read also past articles