"Can watchmaking be sustainable?" See brand initiatives and trends

The wristwatch on my desk now has a huge, strange and interesting shape. The case is about two boxes thick, about twice as wide as normal, and solid gray.

And inside the acrylic cover, needles like toys are lined up vividly in red, blue, yellow, and underneath it is a junction box (protection of terminals and terminals used when connecting, branching, and relaying wires). There are thick wires, memory slots, and circuit boards that look like the contents of the box are messed up. This is a large prototype of a watch called the "Garbage Watch" that uses trash to signal future time, and is large enough to fit the (incredible) Hulk's wrist.

Former advertising creators, twin brothers Nick and Steve Tidoball, run Vollebak, a radical design-led company that creates "future clothing" born from new materials, new technologies and a bit of unusual inspiration. So they make jackets made entirely of copper, trousers that can be used for 100 years, non-disassembled firefighting equipment that is no longer needed, and sweaters made from old bulletproof vests. In 2020, Nick, who was tasked with the mission of "making unloved things loved" by the design magazine "Wallpaper *", paid attention to garbage.

What is electronic garbage?

“Even if you use electronic garbage, you should be able to make a watch ... I thought so,” says Nick. Electronic waste is waste such as plastics, metals, precious metals, and ceramics that are sent to landfills every year in the present age when new devices are required one after another. In 2019, 54 tons of electronic waste were generated worldwide, but it seems that only 3 billion pounds of the precious metals worth 10.5 billion pounds (about 1.62 trillion yen) contained in it were recovered.

"Since electronic waste continues to grow, this industry will continue to grow forever. You don't have to go underground to get copper because it's cheaper to re-mining copper from the surface." "I like it. One of the statistics is that "collecting gold from all over the world is still not enough to build the Statue of Liberty", but 7% of the gold is in electronic garbage and somewhere. It's left in the garbage dump, so don't you think you should go get it? "

Making sustainable watches boasting high design and functionality

The result of his quest is scheduled to be released in 2022 as a watch "Garbage Watch" made of recycled parts. In fact, it's an unusual design with an atmosphere that combines "Blade Runner" and "music festival stage". That said, the Tidoball brothers worship design-led mavericks such as Steve Jobs and Heston Blumenthal (chef) and want their watches to have a clothing-like storyline. I am.

“We were fascinated by the beauty of the Pompidou Center in Paris,” says Nick. "It's the aesthetic of putting what should be inside out. I think watches should visually reflect their origin."

And the greatness of this watch is not just the design.

In the late 1980s, the brothers collaborated with Silicon Valley image engineering company Acorn, run by the founder and CEO of NeXT Computer under Steve Jobs. They have developed a system that keeps time in a stable manner using multiple coil wires such as those used in quadcopters (aircraft that use four rotors for takeoff and propulsion, or small unmanned aerial vehicles) and robots. I found a third way to go beyond ceremonial winding and quadcopters. "

“Maybe we can do something that no one has done yet ...” says Steve. But why does this bold, flashy and weird "Garbage Watch" need to be so devised when it definitely doesn't fit the wrists of luxury watch lovers? The reason may be that it is "not" even now. Because they aren't trying to be famous in the world of watches, they are looking to the future of the whole planet.

"Of course, it's impossible to use all the electronic trash in the world," admits Nick. "But if you can get influential people to wear this watch, the conversation about electronic trash will start ... Now, it's amazing to see a watch made of recycled metal and electronic trash. There are many people, but the important thing here is that one day, the clocks made in this way will become commonplace. "

The reality that many watch parts are opaque

How sustainable is your watch?

Do you know where the metal, the diamond, and the gold came from?

Do you know how much carbon dioxide is emitted?

Do you know where the gorgeous leather box sleeping somewhere in the cupboard came from?

Some may say that luxury watches, which are carefully assembled from rare materials from the most remote places on the planet and priced accordingly, are "the opposite of sustainable". ….

A report released by WWF in 2018 describes the harsh reality that many of the major luxury watchmakers "couldn't indicate where the raw materials came from or didn't comment on the matter." In addition, the brand identity, often built using carbon dioxide-intensive means such as travel abroad, planes and motorsports, is incompatible with the news of burning forests and flooded towns.

However, there are signs that the industry is changing due to top executives' understanding that sustainability ratings bring commercial benefits and consumer pressure.

However, sustainable thinking is gradually beginning to permeate the watch industry as well.

Top brands such as Omega, Cartier and IWC Schaffhausen are now signing the Responsible Jewelery Council (RJC), a code of conduct for obtaining precious metals and gems. Since 2018, all Chopard gold has been sourced from ethical sources, and Chopard and Rolex operate their own gold foundries for recycling. The industry as a whole is now adopting sustainability reports, ethics officers, and recycled packages.

But can a lump of gold, steel, precious stones, or leather on the wrist be neutral, let alone beneficial, to the state of the earth? The question still remains, but ...

"Oris" tackling the plastic problem

Founded in 1903, Oris, a small Swiss independent company, has long been committed to conserving water resources through the Aquis collection, a diver's watch loved by many.

So far, we have announced limited models to raise conservation funds for the Great Barrier Reef, the world's largest coral reef, the deepest freshwater lake in the world, Lake Baikal in Russia, and the Han River in South Korea. In recent years, the brand has focused on the marine plastics issue, not only symbolically represented by names and icons, but also on the physical properties of the watch.

"By 2050, we've found amazing statistics that'more plastic will be in the ocean than fish,'" said Rolf Studer, CEO of Orris. "Our mission is to make a difference, and this statistic was a clear signal that we had to take action," he said.

Oris first developed a prototype floating platform for capturing marine plastics in partnership with Everwave (formerly Pacific Garbage Screening). The recovered plastic is used in the case back of the "Aquis Clean Ocean" and the beautiful spotted box for the 3-piece set of the limited diver's watch "Ocean Trilogy".

In the new product, marine plastic is pushed to the front. The "Aquis Date Upcycle" dial is made of recycled PET resin, forming a random color pattern that is unique. Unique and beautiful, it's reminiscent of exotic turtle shells and polished minerals, rather than discarded PET bottles and supermarket bags.

Is recycled plastic a potential fashion item?

“Everyone who buys will have only one unique watch in the world,” says Studer (which is sure to be something special for watch lovers).

"Sustainability has been seen as an added value for watches, but I think it will become a matter of course for watch buyers. Watchmakers must live up to their expectations. "Hmm," says Studer.

In 2021, Oris achieved climate change neutrality in Hölstein's factories, watches and stores around the world. "Being sustainable to us is not just a sign. It is becoming an integral part of our existence," he continues.

While Oris is working on plastics in this way, there are also companies that are working on metals.

"Panerai" focusing on recycled materials

In April 2021, "Panerai", a representative of Swiss and Italian big case watches, announced the concept watch "Submersible eLAB-ID" using 98.6% recycled material. It is said that "the watch with the highest proportion of recycled materials so far", but it would not have been easy to achieve this.

"Panerai is known as a pioneer in materials and innovation. Our origin is in the ocean, so it's important and natural to do something for the planet," said Product Development Director. Alessandro Ficarelli says.

"However, the watch industry is conservative in terms of materials, so we had to look outside."

According to Ficarelli, Panerai engineers in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, are constantly looking for new materials and technologies from other industries. Eco-titanium found in France is an aviation-grade metal made by reusing titanium scraps and scraps used in the aerospace industry, and is said to be able to significantly reduce carbon dioxide emissions.

"But we need very small parts, and they're used to handling tons of tons," he says.

In addition to the precise machining performed by Panerai himself, there was also the need for an allergy test. In addition to that, "I would like to use a new material from the pursuit of storylines, color, and its meaning, but first I have to make sure that there is no problem even if I wear it on my wrist." , Ficarelli continues.

We had to pay attention to details such as the eco-titanium movement with the recycled gold rotor. He also uses recycled sapphire instead of sapphire and rubies.

“At first, the supplier refused to say'impossible',” recalls Ficarelli. "But in the end, he did it!"

Recycled white gold is used for the hands, recycled silicon for the escapement, and recycled steel for the movement. In addition, the non-radioactive luminescent paint (Superluminova: a substance that emits light in the dark), which is now a staple of luxury watches, has also been recovered from the dial that has already been played as a defective product in the watch supply chain.

“Recycling Superluminova wasn't the goal, it was the exact same quality as the original, with the same transparency and visibility both in and out of the water,” says Ficarelli.

Limited to 30 pieces, the "eLAB-ID" is priced at £ 51,400 and is one of the most expensive and hard-to-find items in the Panerai collection. However, as for its manufacturing method that can be realized on a large scale, the main lineup and the "Luminol Marina eSteel", which is made of 95% recycled steel and sells at a more affordable price of 7,600 pounds (¥ 1,056,000) It is used for watches such as.

“I wanted to make news for the watch industry with'eLAB-ID',” says Ficarelli. "I wanted to say something symbolic about the sound-cycle economy, but 30 watches were very few and the development costs were huge. Our goal is 30% of the entire collection is made from recycled materials. We want to make recycled steel and eco-titanium a new standard. "

Interestingly, when Panerai discovers more ways to improve watch sustainability, "I'm going to share that detail with other companies in the industry, rather than keep it a trade secret," Ficarelli said. "I want to be the" first ", but I don't want to be the" only company "," he says.

However, while there are such efforts and symbolic movements, it is also a fact that the world is still difficult to understand for conscientious watch buyers. The watch you bought may support well-meaning activities or identify the source of a particular material, but do you know where the other parts came from? What are you trying to buy? How can I find out ...

"Breitling" that clarifies the transparency of parts

Under the direction of big-name CEO Georges Khan, the Swiss manufacturer of luxury chronographs and pilot watches, Breitling, which is shifting its target to the younger generation, believes there is a solution.

It uses blockchain, a self-updating public database that tags and tracks input data, to record watch materials and parts. All Breitling watches are given a "digital passport", and we aim to be able to scan the QR code to see when, where, and how all parts were manufactured. “Eco just to look like” does not work, and the purchaser will be able to understand and judge for himself.

“In the next five to fifteen years, consumers will want complete transparency about the production process and supply chain of what they buy,” says Georges Khan. .. "Sooner or later, I think we'll be required by law, so we have to take the initiative," he says.

Full traceability "doesn't just allow consumers to make more informed choices," he says. Breitling will also be able to manage its activities, convince its suppliers to do the same, and achieve carbon neutrality as a whole. "From there, you can go further and ask,'Can we offset all the CO2 we've produced in the past?'. With blockchain, that's possible."

Breitling is already moving forward with common eco-friendly moves, such as eliminating wasteful packaging, adopting innovative cases made entirely of recycled PET bottles, and switching documents from paper to digital. In 2021, in collaboration with surfer Kelly Slater, we unveiled the Superocean His Heritage '57 Outer Know, an arrangement of the classic 1960s watch, featuring an Econyle strap made from recovered marine plastic. ..

“Econyl straps don't save the ocean, but it's important to get 200,000 customers aware of the problem each year,” Khan said. “Our customers are wealthy and influential people, and we believe we can use that to help improve the status quo,” he says strongly.

Since becoming part of CVC CAPITAL PARTNERS in 2017, Khan has made a big difference in Breitling. The aviation-focused stubbornness of the past has disappeared, and celebrities such as explorers, triathletes, Charlize Theron, Brad Pitt, and Adam Driver have introduced "squads." Of course, this shift in "Breitling" to sustainability may not be purely altruistic.

“The luxury industry is changing,” says Kahn. "People want brands to behave sustainably. In addition to the guilt of being wealthy, they don't want to have a second nuisance," he says. In addition, potential investors are asking for the same.

"If you don't have a solid ESG (Environment, Society, Governance) policy, you can't buy or sell a company. In this respect, the business world is far ahead of politicians' demands."

As a result, the image of "Breitling" has changed.

“Some of the extravagant behavior is anachronistic,” he says. "Would you like to see a yellow supercar driving in Milan now that the environmental crisis is crying? It would be better to see him cleaning the beach with a surfer squad in Hawaii ..."

With this in mind, Breitling will end its long-standing sponsorship of Jet Team's stunt aircraft in 2019.

Watches are precious metal-dependent luxury items and are by no means "environmentally friendly". What does Khan think of watches here for those who claim to be "essentially unsustainable"?

"It's the digital clock that isn't really sustainable," he argues. "Batteries, plastics, disposables. Mechanical watches are a work of art that you can keep for a lifetime without throwing them away. How many people wear your dad's watch? Nothing is more sustainable than an analog watch."

"TRIWA" that balances world peace and environmental protection

Some materials have moral challenges as well as carbon dioxide emissions. In the mid-2010s, the Swedish watch "Microbrand Triwa" (short for Transforming the Industry of Watches) began to question its raison d'etre.

“The original plan was to sell the watch as a familiar item, like a cap or sneaker, rather than a luxury item that is out of reach,” says creative director Ludwig Sheiya. "But I'm at the stage of asking myself,'I started to make something new, but nothing has changed from other watch brands.' This was the catalyst for thinking about sustainability. ".

With Humanium Metal, a Swedish startup that supplies recycled iron and steel from illegal firearms seized in conflict areas and invests its profits in communities affected by the shootings. Cooperation has begun.

Humanium Metal needs a product to prove its concept, and "TRIWA" is happy to provide it. Like Panerai's recycled titanium, this new manufacturing process has created challenges that were unthinkable in traditional watchmaking.

“Usually, watch cases are stamped from stainless steel plates, but we had to use metal powder and an injection molding process,” says Shayer.

The result is a series of automatic and chronographs that feature the astringent beauty of brushed metal, use the Citizen workhorse movement, and are priced below £ 550.

This watch is delicate and attractive and feels like it's helping somewhere in the world. To date, Triwa has returned approximately £ 110,000 to the Humanium Metal project and has participated in the destruction of 12,000 weapons. Former United Nations weapons inspector Hans Blix also owns the company's watches.

Above all, "this is not a gimmick," she says.

"We wanted to pay homage to this metal and emphasize what it symbolizes. The usual way of introducing a regular watch design and donating sales doesn't work. I. Visited El Salvador, witnessed the people affected by the shootings and realized that (our work) could make a difference. Now the brand is a watch made entirely of recycled PET plastic. We are working on it. We want to make a statement symbol, not a status symbol. "

There are more and more companies other than "TRIWA" that are making such efforts.

Source / ESQUIRE UKTranslation / Yuka Ogasawara * This translation is an abstract translation.